Nuts for Coconuts | Toddy - The Local Brew

Photo: 'Raa Badhi', Traditionally made Maldivian Toddy Containers

Toddy is the sap of the coconut palm extracted from the flower buds by toddy tappers. Toddy tapping or ‘raa verikan’ goes a long way into the Maldivian history and it used to be a remarkable occupation passed from father to son.

Toddy tappers cut the end of the inflorescence when it is ready to ripen and hangs a collecting pot specially made from coconut shells called ‘Gudi’ and is left to fill overnight. The toddy is then collected following day and transferred into a coconut container called ‘Raa badhi.’ Sweetness differs according to the time of collection with the evening toddy being the sweetest. The collected toddy is then sold by the glass in the fresh form, a tasty sweet drink despite its pungent odor.

Maldivians use toddy in different ways. It is heated to make ‘Dhiyaa Hakuru’ a golden honey-like-liquid similar to Maple Syrup which Maldivians enjoy eating with rice, coconut crepes and also acts as a main ingredient in sweet cakes, desserts and snacks. This syrup is further cooked under low-heat with a pinch of sugar and a particular form of coral for an extended period which then turns into a creamy-white paste called “Karu Hakuru.” This is used as a breadfruit chips dip or spread on thin coconut bread.

In the olden days, these syrups were a staple in the households and were also relished by sailors and fishermen as their diet onboard for distant journeys as these toddy products lasted several months without refrigeration or preservatives.

Toddy is also fermented and turned to toddy vinegar which has a strong acidic flavor with a hint of coconut taste. This vinegar is used in flavoring other food products and as a preservative to make local pickles or ‘assara’.

Today, Toddy and toddy products are very rare but it is still available infrequently throughout the Maldivian Islands. With modernization, the art of toddy tapping is almost lost. The government has recently stepped in and has introduced ‘toddy tapping’ courses in the atolls in order to revive this fading Maldivian tradition.

If you happen to tour Malé, the capital island, stop by the local market to find these 'Dhiyaa Hakuru' and 'Karu Hakuru' among other local food products.